‘Don’t kill it, okay?’ said the captain of our little boat, as the tiny creature landed on my hand.

I’m not sure what made him think I had a murderous streak, but I dutifully laid my palm out flat, as I gazed at the little bug dancing on my skin.

Night had fallen over the South China Sea, and the only light came from the crew’s torches and the firefly that I was now holding.

As more glowing specks seemed to appear in the mangroves of Limbawang Bay, it was one of those moments where you can’t help but be in awe of Mother Nature.

How is it that a beetle with wings can look like a fairy-light, and more beautiful than any I’ve ever put on my Christmas tree?

I pulled the phone out of my pocket to capture what I was seeing, and soon realised it was a fruitless attempt.

The beautiful sunset was just the start of our river cruise. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

The fuzzy flickering dots on an otherwise black screen looked like my device was malfunctioning – but when I looked up, there they were: the fireflies silently darting around the trees.

Staying away from my phone made the experience all the more magical. Our guide later told me that they’re regularly asked to get photos of the fireflies for their marketing team but, as she said, without the use of professional equipment, ‘it can’t be done.’

And, despite having no evidence, I know I’ll never forget seeing those little lightning bugs.

Borneo is simply spectacular. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

My time in Borneo was full of memories like this: from hiking at sunrise and drinking coffee in the shadow of Mount Kinabalu, to watching wild orangutans tucking into their breakfast.

I’d never thought to put Borneo, the third-largest island in the world, on my bucket list – but this is why it should go straight to the top of yours.

Where To Stay

Surrounded by 400 acres of natural beauty, the Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria Resort & Spa is a little slice of heaven.

There’s a 3km private beach, 64-acre forest reserve, an 18-hole golf course and a spa. And with over 60 activities available to book from the resort, you still feel like you’re getting an authentic Borneo experience.

The Rasa Ria Resort & Spa. (Credit: Rasa Ria)

The resort is split into two: the exclusive adults only Ocean Wing, and the Garden Wing, which is catered towards families (there’s a children’s club and a creche).

Despite hundreds of guests (there are 499 rooms), the whole place feels open and tranquil, with palm trees and the stunning South China Sea ever-present on the horizon.

Not a bad view. (Credit: Rasa Ria)

My spacious room reflected the serene atmosphere, decorated in earthy tones with a huge double bed. But the piece de résistance was surely the private balcony with sweeping ocean views and my very own, oversized, al fresco bath.

If you want to feel really smug, I would highly recommend requesting a free scented bubble bath (drawn for you, of course) on said balcony.

When you check into Rasa Ria you’ll receive a text from their virtual concierge – actually a real person – welcoming you to the resort. You can then use this number to make any requests quickly and easily, such as ordering room service or, in my case, a bubble bath.

Nothing has made me feel quite as relaxed as having a soak, a cocktail in hand, watching the sun set over the ocean. Yes, the bedtime story they leave for you on your bed is a little weird, but just go with it.

Bubbles and room service. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

A Junior Suite Sea View room in the Ocean Wing starts from approximately £223 per night including breakfast. But when you consider that the average cost for a room in a 4* London hotel is £267 per night, it’s more than worth the price price tag.

And if you’ve got a special occasion coming up, look no further. We bumped into more than one set of honeymooners in the resort, and even witnessed a proposal.

What To Do

If nature is your thing, you’ve come to the right place. The morning after we arrived, we were up before the lark, ready for our sunrise hike, which costs just £27 per person.

At the resort’s Discovery Centre, we were met by our guide, Lasley (aka, Borneo’s nicest guy), who enthusiastically led us into the jungle. In the darkness, a trained naturalist, he cheerfully pointed out the tarantulas, scorpions and venomous snakes – a fountain of knowledge, each fact more terrifying than the last.

After about 30 minutes (this is a hike lite), we arrived at the viewing platform, where coffee and croissants awaited us. The view was undeniably breathtaking, with Mount Kinabalu – a UNESCO World Heritage site – in the distance, and the jungle and sea below.

Breakfast views. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

With the sun firmly up, we headed back to the centre. There, Lasley suggested heading over the resort’s golf course, for more wildlife spotting. While the most you’ll see on a fairway in the UK is a rogue squirrel, here, we saw monitor lizards, hornbills and a family of otters enjoying a morning dip.

From sunrise, to sunset, and the aforementioned Tembara River Cruise is also a must do. For just £34, you can enjoy a relaxing river cruise, stopping off at a sandbank to watch the sun disappear on the horizon. The boat crew also double up as enthusiastic photographers – just go with, the results were surprisingly impressive. Then, as dusk falls, it’s onto the mangroves for firefly spotting.

Breakfast views. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

Finally, back at the hotel, whether you’re a budding artist or not, a £33 relaxing session of Batik Canting was a surprisingly fun experience. Batik is a traditional Malaysian artistic practice, known for its bright and bold designs. With the help of our very enthusiastic teacher, we learnt how to draw our outlines onto fabric using hot wax, before adding colour. The designs were then stitched onto tote bags, which appeared in our rooms the following night.

The experience was made all the more fun thanks to the flowing glasses of fizz and a delicious array of nibbles. It was essentially a sip and paint session, Malay style. If you’re a family of four, you can all book for just £77.

Batik Canting was a relaxing experience. (Credit: Rasa Ria)

A Day Trip To Sandakan

There are only two places on Earth where you can see orangutans in the wild: Sumatra, in Indonesia, and Borneo.

It was the part of the trip I’d looked forward to the most, meaning I could just about cope with the 3am wake up call in order to catch the 40 minute flight from Kota Kinabalu, to Sandakan, a city on the northeast coast of Borneo.

Rasa Ria work with tour company Amazing Borneo, to facilitate day trips for guests to the other side of the island. We were met at the airport by our guide, John, a Sadakan native, passionate about his hometown.

Our first stop was a trip to the Central Market. We arrived at 9am – but the traders actually set up shop as early as 3am. The place is huge: there’s stall after stall of fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and seafood, and so many eggs. It’s an assault on the senses, and possibly not one for any vegans in your group.

We climbed our way to the top of the four storey market to have a breakfast of noodles and pork wantons. Made by an elderly chef that surely should be retired, they were delicious – and cost the equivalent of just £1.

Next, it was orangutan time. Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre opened way back in 1964, the first of its kind, looking after orphaned and injured orangutans – one of the most endangered primate species in the world. Today, between 60 and 80 orangutans live independently in the 43sq km reserve, while around 25 orphaned babies are cared for in the nurseries.

Hiding in the trees. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

After walking through the jungle with John, we came to the viewing platform. While the orangutans roam as they please, the centre provides them with supplementary food – and we arrived just in time for breakfast.

There are lots of other tourists also keen to catch a glimpse, so it’s a busy affair, but watching the animals interact was more than worth it. We were even lucky enough to spot a large male orangutan, who doesn’t typically live on the reserve, but was clearly feeling peckish.

While the orangutans are the standout of Sandakan, our trip wasn’t over yet. Next, we headed to Puu Jih Shih Temple, which sits atop a hill, offering panoramic views of the sea below. The temple itself is equally as impressive, with three ornate golden Buddhas keeping watch over worshippers.

The stunning Puu Jih Shih Temple. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

For lunch, we ate at Empire Seafood restaurant. This was the epitome of ‘no frills’ and the owner certainly wasn’t too worried about airs and graces – but don’t let that stop you. The food was some of the best we ate in Borneo – make sure you order some seafood.

Our last stop before heading back to the hotel was the Sandakan Memorial Park. In July 1942, nearly 1500 Australian POWs were shipped from Singapore to Sandakan, to build a military airfield at the command of the Japanese. A year later, a further 770 British and 500 Australian POWs also arrived. The first of three death marches took place in January 1945, killing all but six POWs – who only survived because they escaped.

Sandakan Memorial Park. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

Now, the site is a memorial to those who suffered and died there. It’s peaceful, with a large lily-pad filled lake, as well as the remains of an excavator and generator. Our guide, John, who grew up not far from the park, swears that you can sometimes still hear the footsteps of soldiers.

It was an unexpected stop during a trip to Sandakan, but an important one that I’d highly recommend.

In total, our day trip to Sandakan, including flights, cost £185.

What To Eat

Rasa Ria is home to 10 restaurants and bars, and I’m told there’s some friendly competition between the chefs over whose is the most popular.

My favourite was Tepai Laut – an al fresco eatery right by the beach, inspired by the stalls of a Malaysia street food market.

I particularly enjoyed the new lunch menu here, where we sampled a platter of traditional Malay food, including hinava ikan (a raw fish salad) and chicken satay. I was also introduced to my new favourite dessert: sweet potato and condensed milk. Trust me.

The feast at Tepi Laut. (Credit: Kristina Beanland)

I also loved cocktails on the beach at The Sampan Bar, sipping a Rasa Ria sling. I raised my eyebrows at the idea of entertainment, but the traditional Malay dancers were mesmerising and not to be missed (there was even some audience participation…).

You can also enjoy complimentary cooking classes at Oceano Modern Grill, where the chef will teach you how to make a delicious Pandam Creme Brulee. Pandam, a herb native to Borneo which tastes sort of like cookie dough, is grown among other herbs and spices in the grounds of Rasa Ria, all of which the chefs use throughout the resort’s restaurants.

Credit: Kristina Beanland / Metro.co.uk